This week's Bring A Loupe features one of the rarest time-only vintage Patek Philippe watches out there. You no doubt familiar with the automatic reference 2526, but you probably haven't seen one with a Gobbi signature on a black dial. Then comes and outstanding Rolex Pre-Explorer with a tapestry dial, the same type of oversized model worn by Edmund Hillary when he conquered Mount Everest. And it does not stop with these great classics ?some more unusual watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Movado, and L. Leroy & Cie also made the cut today. This is your Bring A Loupe for September 2, 2016.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 2526, With Super Rare Black DialThe stunning reference 2526 might have been Patek Philippe's very first automatic watch, unveiled in 1953 (at the very least it was amongst the first). Original black dials are are extremely rare in this reference ?I stress here the word original, as you really want an original enamel dial in your 2526, not a later replacement. Here you can breathe easy, since the black dial has the applied indexes characteristic of the first generation of dials. It also comes with something very special though too, just above 6 o'clock: Yes, the one line of text there ?"Gobbi, Milano ?changes everything, as this very watch is believed to be the only black dial Gobbi-signed 2526. This is the type of watch that make an auction room go wild. Looking beyond that, you can see that it has remained in great condition with a good yellow gold case that has been polished before but still has clearly visible hallmarks, always a great sign.
The European dealer Iconeek offers this exceptional 2526 here for 230,000 CHF (approximately $235,000 at time of publishing).
A Jaeger-LeCoultre 'Snowdrop' Reference E877The Memovox is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre's emblematic watches, and this "Snowdrop" model reminds us that it came in many different shapes and styles since its launch in the early 1950s. The oval case of the reference E877 is unmistakably from the 1970s. Roughly 2,000 examples were made, so it is not a common watch from the era, especially with a black dial. The 43mm case might look massive at first glance, but the lack of lugs will make its dimensions appear more modest when worn on the wrist. The automatic caliber 916 offers a more modern rotor, while the previous automatic Memovox models relied on a bumper system.
You can find this funky Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox offered for $4,950 on Matthew Bain's website here.
ADVERTISEMENT Rolex Pre-Explorer 'Ovettone' Reference 6298The Rolex references 6098 and 6298 are often qualified as "Pre-Explorer" models as they present some of the characteristics of the later Explorer, especially the 36mm case size, but did not bear the Explorer moniker on the dial yet. They also came with domed casebacks, in the vein of the earlier bubblebacks, and are best known for riding Sir Hillary Edmund's wrist to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. The incredible tapestry dial is obviously a major attraction of this particular watch, with full radium dots and applied indexes in tact. Note that the lack of endlinks on the bracelet, which is period correct (these were only patented by Rolex in 1954, and were not immediately adopted on the Explorer). Yet,the bracelet (or at least the clasp) might still be a later addition as it is engraved 1956, while the watch was produced in 1953. There can sometimes be a small gap, but this seems a little long to me. As expected, the automatic movement is the caliber A296, also found in the early Datejusts and Submariners produced until 1955.
The Italian dealer Elvio Piva has this incredible Rolex listed here for ?6,000 (approximately $17,900 at time of publishing).
Movado Super Sub-Sea 300The condition of this Movado is nowhere near as good as that of the previous watches featured today. It remains a really cool diving watch from the 1970s, however, and offers a bidirectional bakelite bezel and a very legible dial. This model came in either the black you see here or orange, the two favorite colors of divers. The automatic movement is based on Zenith's caliber 2552 PC, as the two brands were under the same ownership at the time. The pictures of this watch could stand to be better, but in any case they seem to show a decent watch. The only major warning is the strange lume application on the seconds hand, though it's pretty in line with the crumbly tritium on the indexes.
The Ebay listing is about to expire, but the bidding is still below $900 here.
L. Leroy & Cie ChronographWhen you first look at this elegant chronograph, you might expect to see Patek or Vacheron written on its dial. Instead, you'll see that it was made by L. Leroy & Cie, which notably competed with Breguet for the attention of the fashionable Parisians in the 1940-1950s. The 35mm chronograph offers some fancy lugs, reminiscent of the "spider" shape of the Patek chronograph reference 1579, and its applied indexes really bring a nice balance to the dial. Inside, you can find the trusted Valjoux 23 that the seller describes as being in excellent working condition.
A collector based in France is offering this L. Leroy & Cie chronograph for ?,500 (approximately $7,280 at time of publishing) here.
Patek-philippe Jaeger-lecoultre Cartier Rolex-explorer Bring-a-loupe A Very Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava An Oversized Replica Rolex Pre Explorer An Unusual Jaeger LeCoultre Snowdrop And More 1264